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    April 15

    科尔玛——干白葡萄酒之乡

                          科尔玛——干白葡萄酒之乡

                                              ◆艾薇儿

      租一条船,在孚日山脚下的萨韦尔(SAV-ERNE)上船,沿运河而行。穿越开满啤酒花的原野,一路安静地游览。偶尔发现风情的老城、开满鲜花的河岸和气氛热闹的酒吧,然后进入莱茵河的森林,最后,踏上开满水仙花的小路,我们来到了科尔玛(COLMAR)。

      这个被葡萄园包围着的小镇,空气中弥漫着醉人的味道。刚到科尔玛的时候,我笑着问同行的朋友,我会不会醉倒在空气中。秉承了法国人浪漫天性的他也和我开着玩笑,他们这里的人每天都陶醉在酒镇的生活中。第一次看到迷人的葡萄园风光就让我想起了小时候在明信片上看到过的景色,夏天来这里真是来对了时节。朋友开着车带我们去酒村玩,我们穿梭在大大小小的酒村里,看那些我总也看不厌的田园风光。

      科尔玛是个花团锦簇的酒镇,16世纪的建筑风格,充满了令人遐想的精致。木材搭建的多面形的屋顶,凸肚窗、拱道,还有迷人的葡萄园小径……漫步在那里,总让我有种错觉,好像自己不小心就会走进了某个童话故事中。听朋友说,在这个地灵人杰的酒镇曾经走出过一位杰出的雕刻家,也就是美国自由女神像的作者巴托迪。至今,巴托迪的作品在科尔玛的公园里还随处可见。

      我们被一间用很别致的酒桶做招牌的酒吧吸引住了。酒吧主人热情地招呼我们,邀请我们品尝新酿造的白葡萄酒。见我们是远道而来的客人,主人又如数家珍般地向我们介绍阿尔萨斯的干白葡萄酒。

      阿尔萨斯人因为干白葡萄酒而自豪,干白葡萄酒仿佛就是阿尔萨斯的同义词。在科尔玛尤其如此,科尔玛是阿尔萨斯区的葡萄酒中心,主要的酒村集中在以科尔玛为中心的条状地带。听酒吧主人介绍,这里种植的葡萄与莱茵河对岸德国种植的葡萄是相同的,颈部细长的酒瓶也与德国的非常近似,但口味却不大相同,听他说这是因为阿尔萨斯葡萄酒是用德国的葡萄和法国的方法酿造的葡萄酒。坐在木头搭建的酒吧里听老板侃侃而谈,品着味道清醇的干白葡萄酒,看着窗外整片整片的葡萄园,闻着空气中的芬芳,我好像真的醉了……

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